Updated 09/28/05

Intro

Planning

Deckhouse 1

Deckhouse 2

Deckhouse 3

Deckhouse 4

Ballast System

Bow Thruster

Drive Units

Painting 1

Painting 2

Detailing 1

Median Voyage

Voyage 1

Dry dock 1

Dry dock 2

Dry dock 3

Dry dock 4

Dry dock 5

Dry dock 6

Dry dock 7

Dry dock 8

Dry dock 9

Dry dock 10

Repainting

Portholes

Access Panels

 

Building the 1/87 Edmund Fitzgerald

"Portholes"

While building my Edmund Fitzgerald, one area that to some thought was the portholes, particular the ones in the hull. With the hull made of 1" foam, I couldn't just drill a hole and back it with some clear plastic. The solution here I think works pretty well. The idea is to insert a aluminum tube with the inner diameter the correct size of the portholes. I could then sand it flush, paint the hull, then insert the round clear plastic window from inside the hull.

 

Here are the tools needed for a good job. Small bits - Small fine rat tail files - Pin vic drill - Electric drill - center punch - straight edge and hole punch - small pipe cutter.

Here is the punch tool bought at Michaels for $5.00. Works great for punching out portholes in clear plastic.

Start by mapping out all the portholes. Draw your line down from the forecastle marked in blue here. Next make a template from the bow for all the porthole locations. This can then be used on the other side also.

Now that all holes are make you can hit them with a center punch for better drilling.

Use a small bit to start the holes. This will ensure a good centered hole.

Open the holes up bit by bit, using the next size bit each time. Again this will ensure a good centered hole.

Verify all holes are in line with a straight edge. If one is out of location, you can run a file in it to open it up in the direction it needs to move.

Open the holes up to just under the need hole size. Run drill at low speed.

Again verify hole locations along the way, move if needed.

Now that the holes are in a located in the right spot, you can finish opening the to the right size with a file. Note the blue tape to let me know how far down I need to go. Check for fit with the aluminum tubing. DO NOT TWIST FILE SO THAT IT SCREWS ITSELF INTO THE HULL. Instead twist it the opposite direct.

Finish the hole up with a tapered bit. All you want to do here is put a very small angle at the very top of the hole. This will give a little room for the glue to beed in and hold on.

Now that all the holes are in place you can fit the aluminum tube into place. Insert the tub till it comes out the oppisite side inside the hull. Make where you need to cut. When using the pipe cutter, use very light pressure to keep from crushing the tube inwards.

Let the tubing stick out on the inside slightly.

Verify all holes line up. Up can adjust them with a file if one has t be moved. The hole will become to large, but you can file any gap latter.

Push all tubings into place, leaving them just above the surface.

Glue them in place by dropping some glue on a scrape piece, using a thin rod to apply little at a time. Glue marked in red.

Now that they are all glue down, you can sand them flush. Apply some tape down on either side, this will keep you from taking to much off and get things close. Use 150 grid.

Pull the tap off and finish sanding down to the hull surface. Finish things off with 220 grit paper.

Here is the finished portholes. As you can see it makes for a nice clean fit. I can now paint the hull without worrying about getting paint on any windows. Once painted I will insert the plastic windows made with the punch.

 

Launch date on  November 10,2000

This site designed by and maintained by: Jeffrey W. Churill

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