Updated 11/02/04

Intro

Planning

Building the Frame

Center Joint

Spar Deck stg1

Bow

Foam Sides

Spar Deck stg2

Shaping the Foam

Fiber Glassing

Prep. for Paint #1

Prep. for Paint #2

Ballast System #1

Bow Stern Detail

Deckhouse #1

Deckhouse #2

Deckhouse #3

Stripping

Cook "N"Footer

Hell Weeks

Drives

Ballast System

Maiden Voyage

Deckhouse #4

Repainting

Bull Work

 

Planning you Hull Design and Construction     


Planning your construction is very important, poor planning can lead to headaches down the road. Building a 1000 Footer hull is pretty straight forward because of it boxy shape. However a AAA class boat requires a bit more planning due to it's sleek hull design. You will find this is a very simple construction technique and can be applied to any hull design with very little modifications. Probably the best thing about this technique is you end up with a very light yet strong hull. You will find the hardest thing with larger models is simply handling them, so the lighter the better.

 Materials :

A.    1 sheet of 1 1/2 inch 4x8 "White Foam". This stuff looks like Styrofoam cups but more course. $7.00

B.    2 sheets of 1/8 inch 4x8 Paneling/Plywood. If it has a painted or finished side you must sand it off for good gluing. $14.00

C.    6 yards of 6 ounce Fiberglass. $25.00

D.    2 gallons of Epoxy. This stuff is a 3 to 1 mix an has a full cure of 24 hours. Make sure your Epoxy is foam safe while purchasing.  $75.00

E.    4 ounces of Medium CA glue and 2 ounces of Thin Ca glue. $30.00.

F.    1 3x4 sheet of 1/4 inch Plywood

1.  First determine how much water you are going to need to fully ballast your model to simulate a full load. Water is 8.5 lbs per gallon and has a volume of 231 sq. inches. With an HO boat if you just figure the entire cargo hold for ballast, and the use of 1 1/2 inch foam sides you should be pretty safe.

 

2.  The foam sides are for easy shaping of the hull such as the thumbhole and hull bottom radius. Remember the strength of the hull comes from the fiberglass and inner ballast tank frame not the foam. I would recommend using 1.5 inch foam for the sides on a model of this size and scale. Here you can see the finish hull supported by a single 6 inch foam block in the middle, plenty strong enough.

 

 

 

 

3.  Plan your parts, determine what is going to be shaped with the foam such as the bow and stern sections, and how much is going to be plywood such as the hull bottom and ballast tank.

4.  Cut all parts out before you continue to the next stage of construction. Do a dry run and put things together ( No Glue ) to see how they fit and get an idea as to how to put all this together. Construction sequence of your hull is very important so read through this instructions to help with your planning.

Rough sequence for the hull assembly will go as follows.

1.   Cut out all parts before each stage.

2.   Assemble Ballast Tank Frame.

3.   Finish Ballast Tank fittings and wiring channel and sealing.

3.   Attach foam Side and Bow Sections, shape camber in Foam sides.

4.   Attach Spar Deck.

5.   Shape Hull to final dimensions.

6.   Fiberglass Hull.

7.   Paint Hull.

8.   Cut holes for access panels and ballast tank system.

9.   Build superstructures.

9.   Add running gear such as motors, radio and other systems.

10.  Trough model in water and see if she floats.

 

 

Launch date on  November 10,2000

This site designed by and maintained by: Jeffrey W. Churill

All photographs & images are property of:

 Great Lakes Nautical Society and/or Great Lakes Model Association

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