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Blue
Masking Tape
Blue Masking
Tape: General purpose trim tape for masking.
Good: Good
for masking trim areas – Comes off easy – Easy to hold a
straight line. – Can be left on longer and still come off easy.
Many uses.
Bad: More
expensive – Will not stretch around a curves well.
#1.
Sand by lay tape down around an area you need to sand down.
Works well for portholes, bulwark, foam and patched area’s. This
will protect already finished areas from being sanded down even
further. Use 220 grit sandpaper to start, getting it close to
where you need it. Then pull the tape off and lightly sand to
finish it off with say 220 grit and finally 320 grit.
#2.
Mounting Parts by use tape to help hold things in place for
trial fitting before final gluing, for instance bulwark and trim
parts. Place your part down and lay your tape over it. Now take
the taped part and position it in place, use a straight edge if
needed. You can then check for fit and tack in place. Pull the
tape off by dragging back into itself, this will keep the part
from being pulled off. Check for good fit, and then finish
gluing in place.
#3.
Here's another part being attached with tape. This particular
part is small and very thin. It's the upper hull side running
along the spar deck. Very hard to put on right, that is before I
started using tape. I laid the strip down flat and straight,
then was careful to lay the tape over it. I then took the tape
with the strip attached and aligned it at the one end holding
the other end away from the hull. I tacked the end with glue,
worked down two inches and tacked again and so on tacking ever
few inches. I then peeled tap back onto itself as to not pull
the part off. Finally finishing it up be running thin CA down
the length of the strip.
#4. I
use the Blue Masking for just about all my hull painting, it
leaves a good line. Noting real special here.
Masking
Tape
Regular
Masking Tape: General purpose trim tape for masking.
Good: Cheap
– Good for general purpose use.
Bad: Harder
to come off. – Longer it’s left on, the harder it comes off. Can
lift paint.
#1. I
hardly ever apply glue directly from the bottle, this is just
asking for trouble. Instead apply a small puddle of glue on a
scrape piece of styrene rapped in tape. Then take a small thin
rod, dip it in the glue and apply it to your part. Thin CA works
best for detailing because it gets under the part and doesn't
leave a bead of glue on the edges. When the tape gets a lot of
glue on it, I simply replace it. I also painted the one end red
so I don't accidentally grad a plate full of glue!!!
#2.
Shaping the hull by applying an angle in the sides call a tumble
home. Notice the tape on the sanding block and on the foam hull
sides, this gives me a guide as well as protecting the already
finished area's.
#3.
More hull shaping by sanding in the hull bottom radius. Again
guide as well as protecting the already finished area's. I used
a long sanding block to make sure things stay consistent.
Two
Way Tape
Two Way
Tape: Muli-purpose two way tape.
Good:
Lots of uses I'm
sure, but I many use it for sanding blocks.
Bad:
Expensive
Use 2
way tape for small sanding blocks to hold your sand paper in
place.
Automotive
Trim Tape
Good: Best
tape for trimming painted area’s.
Bad:
Expensive.
This is simply the best tape to use
for trimming painted area's, it's flexible, thin and can get in
those tight area's. It leaves a perfect paint trim line. Only
thing to be careful of is not to lay down to heave coat of
paint, this will bead up near the tape and leave a ridge.
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